Culinary History
Dorking's tradition for fine food and drink has deep roots. Most famous of all is the Dorking fowl, a colourful breed of poultry that was distinguished by its fifth claw. In the 19th century it was valued as a table bird with a national reputation and a favorite with Queen Victoria. Back as far as the 17th century, the town was said to have the greatest poultry market in England. Although no longer commercially bred, the 'Dorking' adorns the town and District Council coat of arms and is responsible for the nickname of Dorking Football Club: 'the chicks'.
Poultry is by no means the only reason for Dorking's prowess as a centre for food. The livestock market was a feature of the High Street from medieval times to the 20th century. Corn was also widely produced and ground by local mills, of which Lowfield Heath windmill in Charlwood is an excellent and recently restored working example. Watermills along the Pippbrook and Tillingbourne streams also ground corn. Some if these buildings survive but are used for different purposes. Since the mid 19th century the Tillingbourne has been known for the production of watercress.
Dairy produce was a feature of the medieval market. The sale of butter, cheese and eggs was associated with South Street and is probably the reason why Butterhill was so named.
There is evidence of vine growing since Roman times. John Aubrey, writing in the 17th century stated that: In this town is a great plenty of cherries, particularly a wild cherry that Mr John Evelyn tells me makes a most excellent wine, little inferior to the best French claret'. Poultry and fish in particular attracted well-to-do visitors from the 16th century onwards. The establishment of the Denbies Wine Estate and the Surrey Hills brand for high quality local produce is a continuation of traditions that have been built up over several centuries.
